trekhigh

Upper Mustang Trek — 12 Days

Dhakmar cliffs
Length
12 days
Highest point
3,840 m
Difficulty
Moderate
Best months
May–Oct
Starts
Jomsom (fly from Pokhara)
Group size
2–10 People
Sleeping
Tea House / Lodge

Step into the forbidden Kingdom of Lo — Upper Mustang's walled city of Lo Manthang, ancient cave monasteries, and Tibetan culture thrive in Nepal's finest monsoon-season trek.

  • Lo Manthang — the walled medieval capital of the ancient forbidden Kingdom of Lo
  • Cave monasteries carved into ochre cliffs: Chhoser, Jhong, and Tsarang Dzong fortress
  • Rain-shadow Tibetan Plateau: arid canyons and badlands unlike anywhere else in Nepal
  • Restricted area permit limits visitors — pristine culture and uncrowded trails
  • Tiji Festival (usually May) — three-day sacred masked dance ceremony in Lo Manthang
  • Kagbeni — medieval fortress village at the threshold of Upper Mustang
  • Nilgiri (7,061 m) and Annapurna II back-drop the entire circuit
  • Lo-pa horse culture — local communities still traverse passes on horseback
  • Deepest gorge on Earth: Kali Gandaki divides Annapurna from Dhaulagiri

The climb, day by day

1,000 m2,000 m3,000 m4,000 m3,840 m, day 7
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Altitude reached each day of the itinerary
  1. Day 1Arrive Kathmandu (1,400 m)1,400 m

    Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel. Evening briefing covering Upper Mustang's restricted area regulations, the mandatory Rs 500/day Upper Mustang Restricted Area permit (one of Nepal's most expensive), and cultural etiquette in the ancient Lo Kingdom.

    Distance
    –
    Walking
    –
    Meals
    –
    Night
    Hotel
  2. Day 2Fly Kathmandu → Pokhara → Jomsom (2,720 m)2,720 m

    Morning flight to Pokhara, then connect to the short but spectacular mountain flight to Jomsom in the upper Kali Gandaki valley. Jomsom is the administrative headquarters of Mustang district — Annapurna and Dhaulagiri frame the horizon. Upper Mustang restricted area permit checked here.

    Distance
    –
    Walking
    Flight
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Hotel
  3. Day 3Jomsom → Kagbeni (2,810 m)2,810 m

    Easy walk north along the Kali Gandaki floodplain to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. This medieval walled village with its red-painted gompa and ancient streets marks the beginning of the restricted zone — checkpost here. The wind typically picks up strongly by midday.

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    3–4 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  4. Day 4Kagbeni → Chele (3,050 m)3,050 m

    Enter the Upper Mustang restricted area from Kagbeni checkpost. The trail climbs steeply out of the Kali Gandaki gorge onto arid, wind-sculpted plateaus with extraordinary eroded badlands. Chele perches on a cliff edge with commanding valley views.

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    5–6 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  5. Day 5Chele → Samar (3,660 m)3,660 m

    Cross the Taklam La pass (3,624 m) through wind-eroded canyons of red and ochre rock — the lunar landscape is utterly unlike the rest of Nepal. Samar is a compact village sheltered in a side valley with apple orchards and a small monastery.

    Distance
    16 km
    Walking
    5–6 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  6. Day 6Samar → Ghami (3,520 m)3,520 m

    Cross the Nyi La pass (4,010 m) with sweeping views of the Mustang plateau, then descend to Syangbochen and continue to Ghami. Ghami is notable for its long mani wall — one of the longest in the world at over 400 metres — and a well-preserved 15th-century monastery.

    Distance
    17 km
    Walking
    6–7 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  7. Day 7Ghami → Lo Manthang (3,840 m)3,840 m

    Cross the Ghami La pass (3,760 m) and descend to the Charang Valley, passing the cliff-hanging monastery of Ghami before the final climb to Lo Manthang. The walled city appears suddenly from the barren plateau — its whitewashed ramparts, four-storey palace, and four major gompas are breathtaking.

    Distance
    18 km
    Walking
    6–7 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  8. Day 8Lo Manthang — Explore the Ancient Kingdom3,840 m

    Full day to explore Lo Manthang, capital of the former Kingdom of Lo. Visit Thubchen Gompa (15th century, magnificent murals), Jampa Gompa, the Raja's Palace (Rajhas still reside here), and Chodey Gompa on the northern wall. The town is a living museum of Tibetan culture.

    Distance
    6 km
    Walking
    3–4 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  9. Day 9Lo Manthang → Ghami (3,520 m)3,520 m

    Return south from Lo Manthang through the same magnificent arid landscape, choosing alternative trail variants where possible. The afternoon light on the red cliffs and white chortens is especially beautiful. Overnight in Ghami.

    Distance
    18 km
    Walking
    6–7 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  10. Day 10Ghami → Kagbeni (2,810 m)2,810 m

    Long descent back through Samar and the badlands to Kagbeni, retracing the outward route with stronger legs and clearer mountain views. Exit the Upper Mustang restricted area at Kagbeni checkpost — permit stamped.

    Distance
    26 km
    Walking
    7–8 hours
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Tea House
  11. Day 11Kagbeni → Jomsom (2,720 m) · Fly Pokhara820 m

    Short walk back to Jomsom along the Kali Gandaki floodplain. Afternoon flight to Pokhara (weather permitting — always book an early flight as afternoon winds ground aircraft). Evening at leisure in Pokhara.

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    3 hours / Flight
    Meals
    B, L, D
    Night
    Hotel
  12. Day 12Fly Pokhara → Kathmandu · Departure1,400 m

    Morning flight back to Kathmandu. Half-day free for last-minute shopping in Thamel or visiting Boudhanath. Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward or departure flight. Your Upper Mustang odyssey ends.

    Distance
    –
    Walking
    Flight
    Meals
    B
    Night
    Hotel

The price includes

  • Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit (US$50 per person per day, about US$500 for 10 days)
  • Annapurna Conservation Area permit
  • TIMS card
  • Government-registered English-speaking guide (mandatory for restricted area)
  • Porter (1 per 2 trekkers)
  • All teahouse accommodation on trek
  • 3 meals per day (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
  • Pokhara–Jomsom–Pokhara flights
  • Jomsom–Kagbeni–Lo Manthang jeep (where road exists)
  • Kathmandu hotel transfers
  • All government taxes and service charges

You pay separately

  • International airfare to/from Kathmandu
  • Nepal entry visa fee ($30–$50 on arrival)
  • Comprehensive travel insurance with emergency helicopter evacuation
  • Meals not listed in daily itinerary
  • Personal trekking gear and equipment
  • Tips for guides and porters (recommended: USD 8–12/day guide, USD 5–8/day porter)
  • Beverages, hot showers, and battery charging at teahouses (payable direct)
  • Personal expenses and souvenirs
  • Any costs arising from early departure, illness, or flight delays

The 12-day Upper Mustang Trek is a focused journey to the Forbidden Kingdom — reaching Lo Manthang, the walled medieval capital at 3,840 m, and returning via the scenic east-bank route in fewer days than the full 15-day programme. By using jeep transport between Jomsom and Kagbeni (eliminating the lower valley walking), 12 days is sufficient to experience the Mustang plateau's extraordinary desert landscape, cave monasteries, and Lo-ba Tibetan Buddhist culture.

The highlights remain the same as the longer itinerary: the ochre badlands and wind-carved cliffs above Chele and Ghami, the painted chortens and mani walls of Tsarang, Lo Manthang's 15th-century Thubchen Gompa and royal palace, and the cave monastery of Chhoser north of the capital. The 12-day schedule visits all of these with one fewer acclimatisation day in Lo Manthang — appropriate for trekkers who arrive well-acclimatised from a prior Annapurna or Pokhara altitude stage.

The restricted area permit (US$50 per person per day, about US$500 for 10 days), Pokhara–Jomsom mountain flights, all teahouse accommodation, guide, and porter are included.

Best season: Year-round (rain-shadow area). Access: Pokhara–Jomsom mountain flight included. Restricted area permit: US$50 per day, about US$500 for 10 days (included).

Questions people ask

Why does Upper Mustang cost about US$500 extra in permits?
Upper Mustang is a Government of Nepal Restricted Area, and the special Restricted Area Permit (RAP) costs US$50 per person per day, about US$500 for a standard 10 days inside the zone (the old US$500 flat fee was scrapped in late 2025). This fee was designed to limit visitor numbers and preserve the region's fragile Tibetan-influenced culture and monasteries. Add the ACAP (NPR 3,000, about US$23) and a 10-day stay comes to about US$523 in permits; no TIMS card is needed.
What is Lo Manthang and why is it the highlight?
Lo Manthang is the ancient walled capital of the former Kingdom of Lo, inhabited for over 600 years. The city contains the royal palace, four major monasteries with priceless Tibetan Buddhist murals and thangkas, and a way of life largely unchanged for centuries. Entry into the walled city requires your restricted area permits, which your guide will present at the checkpoint.
Why is Upper Mustang one of Nepal's best monsoon treks?
The Mustang valley lies in the Tibetan rain shadow north of the Himalayas. While the rest of Nepal receives heavy monsoon rainfall from June to September, Upper Mustang remains arid and sunny during this period. It is one of very few Himalayan destinations where trekking conditions are actually better in the monsoon months than in peak season.
How do we get to the Upper Mustang trailhead?
The trek starts with a scenic flight from Pokhara to Jomsom (roughly 20 minutes over the Annapurnas). From Jomsom you can drive or walk north into the restricted zone. The flight is weather-dependent and morning departures are strongly recommended as afternoon winds in the Kali Gandaki gorge can ground aircraft.
Is a guide mandatory and what does it include?
Yes — a licensed guide is legally required in the restricted area at all times. Travel Himalaya Nepal includes an experienced local guide fluent in the Loba language and Tibetan Buddhist culture. Your guide manages all permit checkpoints (there are several along the route), making the logistics seamless.
What is the physical difficulty level?
Upper Mustang is rated moderate. Daily walking stages are 5–7 hours on relatively flat or gently graded trails through an arid landscape. The altitude (Kagbeni at 2,810m, Lo Manthang at 3,840m) is significant but the gradual ascent makes acclimatisation manageable. The main challenges are sun exposure, wind, and the remoteness of the region.

$2,700 solo

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